Upfront, it is nearly a tie: vinyl privacy fencing starts at $30 per linear foot installed and cedar starts at $28. Over 15 years, vinyl usually wins the money argument, because cedar needs staining every 2-3 years and periodic picket and post repairs while vinyl needs a garden hose. But wood wins on repairability, looks (to most eyes), and upfront flexibility - and in a few situations it is clearly the better buy.
If you want the one-line verdict: choose vinyl if you plan to stay put 10+ years and never want to think about the fence again; choose wood if you love the look, want the lower repair bills when something does break, or need to hit the lowest possible upfront number with pine. Now the details.
Upfront Cost: Nearly Even, With a Catch
For a 6-foot privacy fence on a typical 150-foot yard, installed:
- Cedar: $28 - $55 per foot, so $4,200 - $8,250 depending on style and grade
- Vinyl: $30 - $50 per foot, so $4,500 - $7,500 depending on series and thickness
The catch is that pressure-treated pine undercuts both, starting around $24 per foot. If the question is purely "cheapest fence that blocks the neighbor's view," wood wins on day one. But comparing quality cedar to quality vinyl, the upfront gap is a few hundred dollars on a whole project - small enough that the real decision should be made on everything else below.
One warning on vinyl pricing: panel thickness varies enormously. Builder-grade vinyl with thin walls and no reinforcement is what blows into the neighbor's yard in a storm. Quality vinyl uses thicker-wall pickets and rails, aluminum or steel reinforcement in the bottom rail, and virgin (not recycled-core) material with real UV inhibitors. When a vinyl bid comes in suspiciously low, it is thin panel - ask for the wall thickness and the manufacturer's warranty in writing.
15-Year Total Cost of Ownership
Here is where the two materials separate. Numbers below assume a 150-foot, 6-foot privacy fence, professionally maintained:
| Cost Item (15 years) | Cedar | Vinyl |
|---|---|---|
| Installation | $4,200 - $6,000 | $4,500 - $6,500 |
| Stain/seal (5 rounds at $900 - $1,800) | $4,500 - $9,000 | $0 |
| Repairs (pickets, rails, a post or two) | $300 - $900 | $0 - $400 |
| Cleaning | Included in stain prep | DIY hose and soap |
| 15-year total | $9,000 - $15,900 | $4,500 - $6,900 |
Two honest footnotes. First, plenty of homeowners never stain their cedar fence - they let it gray out, accept a 15-year lifespan instead of 20+, and spend far less than the table shows. Unstained cedar is a legitimate strategy in dry climates. Second, DIY staining cuts that line item to $200 - $450 in materials per round if your weekends are free. The table shows what it costs to keep cedar looking furniture-grade with hired labor; the gap narrows if you do the work or skip it. Even so, at 15 years the vinyl fence is usually still standing and still white, and the wood fence is due for major work.
Looks and HOA Considerations
Wood looks like wood - warm, natural, and it can be stained any color and restained a different one in three years. Most people simply like it better, and in neighborhoods full of cedar, a white vinyl fence can read as out of place.
Vinyl looks clean and uniform, and modern lines include tan, gray, and wood-grain textures that are far better than the glossy white panels of twenty years ago. It never needs paint, which is exactly why many HOAs love it.
On HOAs: check your covenants before you get quotes, not after. Many HOAs specify allowed materials, heights, and colors, and some require board approval with drawings. Vinyl's advantage here is permanence of appearance - it looks the same in year 12 as year 1, so it never triggers a "maintain your fence" violation letter. A graying, unstained wood fence can. If your HOA is strict, that alone can decide this question.
Heat, Cold, and Weather Behavior
This is the part vinyl salespeople skip. Vinyl is a thermoplastic, and it behaves like one:
- Heat: Panels expand and soften in high heat. In brutal sun - think Phoenix in August - long unreinforced rails can sag slightly, and dark-colored vinyl gets hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch. Quality installation leaves expansion room in the rail pockets; crews that cut panels tight see them buckle in July.
- Cold: Vinyl gets brittle below freezing. A snowblower discharge, an errant basketball, or an impact that would bounce off in summer can crack a frozen panel.
- Wind: Solid vinyl privacy panels are sails. In high-wind regions, insist on reinforced bottom rails, proper post depth (30-36 inches in concrete), and tighter post spacing. This is a place Florida and coastal installers earn their money.
Wood moves with weather too - pickets shrink, cup, and crack, and gates swell in humid months - but it degrades gradually rather than failing suddenly. Cedar handles temperature swings without becoming brittle, which is part of why it remains the default in the plains states.
Repairability: Wood Wins, Clearly
When a wood fence takes damage, you replace the broken piece. One cracked picket is a $5 board and ten minutes with a hammer. A rotted rail is a $15 fix. Any handy homeowner can do it, and any fence company will do it cheap.
Vinyl fails differently. Panels are systems - pickets lock into rails, rails lock into routed posts - and a cracked picket often means replacing a whole panel section. Worse, matching matters: vinyl profiles vary by manufacturer and series, colors shift slightly between production years and as fences UV-age, and if your installer used a line that has since been discontinued, you are hunting for parts. Smart move at install time: buy one or two spare panels and store them in the garage. Your future self will thank you.
Resale Value
Both materials show well when maintained. A freshly stained board-on-board cedar fence is arguably the best-looking backdrop in residential fencing, and buyers respond to it. A clean vinyl fence signals "nothing to do here," which busy buyers also like. What hurts resale is a fence at the end of its life - graying, leaning, gap-toothed - and wood gets there without maintenance while vinyl mostly does not. If you are selling within two years, either material fresh is fine. If you are selling in year 12 of a fence you never maintained, you will wish it were vinyl.
Verdict by Use Case
| Your Situation | Better Choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Staying 10+ years, hate maintenance | Vinyl | Lowest 15-year total cost, zero upkeep |
| Love the natural look, willing to stain | Cedar | Best appearance, cheap repairs, stainable any color |
| Lowest possible upfront price | Wood (treated pine) | Starts around $24/ft, below both |
| Strict HOA, uniform neighborhood | Vinyl | Consistent appearance forever, no violation letters |
| Extreme heat or hard freezes | Cedar | No softening, sagging, or brittle cracking |
| Kids, dogs, flying basketballs | Cedar | Impact damage is a $5 picket, not a panel hunt |
| Rental or low-attention property | Vinyl | Survives neglect that would kill a wood fence |
Get Quotes for Both and Let the Numbers Decide
The smartest move is to have two or three local companies price both materials for your exact yard - the same crew often installs both, and local labor and wind-load requirements can shift the comparison. Start with our directory of fence companies by state, or jump to your area, like Dallas or anywhere else in Texas, and compare cedar and vinyl bids side by side before you commit.