A typical 150-foot wood fence takes two to three working days on site, usually split by a pause: posts go in and get set in concrete on day one, the concrete cures for one to three days, then the crew returns to hang rails, pickets, and gates. Vinyl and chain link follow the same rhythm. If a contractor promises to dig, set, and finish a full fence in one day, ask how - because concrete does not care about anyone's schedule.
Here is the whole process, from the week before the truck shows up to the moment you should hand over the final check.
Before the Crew Arrives
Most installation problems are actually preparation problems. Four things need to happen before anyone digs:
- Utility locates (call 811). Someone - usually the contractor, but confirm it - calls 811 a few business days before digging. It is free, and in every state it is legally required before excavation. Utility companies come out and mark buried gas, electric, water, and communication lines with paint and flags. Do not let anyone put an auger in the ground on an unmarked lot. Note that 811 marks public utilities only; private lines like a gas run to a pool heater or landscape lighting are yours to flag.
- Know your property line. Find your survey pins (metal stakes at the corners of your lot, sometimes a few inches underground) or pull your plat survey. If there is any doubt, order a survey - it costs far less than moving a fence. Many pros set the fence 2 to 4 inches inside the line as insurance.
- HOA sign-off. If you have a homeowners association, get written approval of height, material, and color before the deposit, not after. HOAs have forced homeowners to tear out brand-new fences.
- Clear the fence line. Move trampolines, planters, firewood, and vehicles. Trim shrubs growing into the line. Unlock side gates, and plan for pets - there will be open trench line and strangers in the yard for several days.
Day One: Layout and Posts
Day one is the day that determines whether your fence is still straight in year ten. The crew will:
- Lay out the line. Stakes go in at corners, ends, and gate openings, then string lines get pulled taut between them. Every post will be aligned to that string - it is the difference between a fence that reads as one clean line and one that wanders.
- Mark post locations. Typically every 8 feet for wood, 6 to 8 feet for vinyl and chain link, adjusted so gate openings land where you want them.
- Dig post holes. With a gas auger or skid-steer attachment, 24 to 36 inches deep depending on fence height and your local frost line, and roughly 10 to 12 inches wide. Rocky soil, roots, and old concrete footings slow this down and are the most common source of day-one surprises.
- Set posts in concrete. Each post gets plumbed with a level, aligned to the string, and set in concrete - generally 50 to 80 pounds per hole. Good crews crown the concrete slightly above grade and slope it away from the post so water sheds instead of pooling around the wood or steel.
At the end of day one, your yard is a row of bare posts sticking out of wet concrete. That is exactly right.
The Pause: Why Your Crew Disappears for 1-3 Days
Concrete needs time to reach working strength before the posts can take load. Hanging 8-foot panels, stretching chain link fabric, or slamming a gate on a post set in green concrete will shift it out of plumb - and it will never be right again. Most installers wait 24 to 72 hours depending on the mix, temperature, and humidity; fast-setting mixes shorten the window, cold and rain stretch it. This pause is not your contractor juggling jobs. It is the correct procedure, and the companies that skip it are the ones whose fences lean by year three.
Panel and Picket Day
When the crew returns, the fence goes up fast - this is the most satisfying day to watch:
- Wood: Rails (typically two for fences under 6 feet, three for 6-foot privacy) get fastened to posts, then pickets go on one by one, gapped or butted per your spec, with a string line or template keeping the tops even. Posts get trimmed to height or capped.
- Vinyl: Rails lock into routed post holes and pre-assembled panels or pickets snap and screw into place. Fast, but only as good as the post-setting was.
- Chain link: Top rail goes on, then the fabric gets unrolled, stretched tight with a come-along, and tied to posts and rail. Tension is the whole game here - loose fabric sags within a season.
Gates Go Last - Always
Gates are the most abused, most adjusted part of any fence, and good crews hang them last, against fully cured posts. Gate posts are usually beefier (a 6x6 instead of a 4x4, or heavier-wall steel) and set deeper, because a gate is a lever that works its post thousands of times a year. The crew will set hinge hardware, hang the gate, adjust the latch, and check that the gate swings the direction you asked for without dragging.
The Final Walkthrough Checklist
Before anyone gets a final check, walk the entire line with the lead installer. Bring this list:
- Gate swing: opens and closes smoothly through its full arc, no dragging, self-closes if speced.
- Latch height and action: latches cleanly every time; pool codes in many areas require latches 54 inches high - verify yours if the fence encloses a pool.
- Plumb posts: sight down the line from each corner. Put a level on a few posts, especially gate posts.
- Picket tops and rail lines: even and consistent, no waves.
- Concrete crowns: sloped away from posts, not cupped around them.
- Cleanup and haul-away: old fence gone (if contracted), dirt spoils removed or spread as agreed, no screws or staples in the lawn - ask them to run a magnet sweep if kids or dogs use the yard.
Typical Timeline for a 150-Foot Project
| Phase | When | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Utility locates | 3-5 business days before | 811 called, lines marked - free and required |
| Prep | Week before | Survey confirmed, HOA approval, fence line cleared |
| Day 1 | Work day 1 | Layout, string lines, holes dug 24-36 in., posts set in concrete |
| Cure pause | 1-3 days | No crew on site; concrete reaches working strength |
| Day 2 (and 3) | Work days 2-3 | Rails, pickets or panels, then gates last |
| Walkthrough | Final hour | Punch list, cleanup, final payment |
Call it two to three actual work days for wood spread across roughly a week of calendar time. Chain link often finishes in two days; ornamental aluminum and vinyl are similar. Long runs, slopes, rock, and lots of gates add time.
Weather Delays: What Is Normal
Rain delays are routine, not a red flag. Crews will not dig in saturated soil (holes collapse and concrete cures poorly), and most will not set posts in a downpour or in hard-freezing temperatures. A day-for-day slide after storms is normal. What is not normal: a crew that vanishes for two weeks after digging your holes, or one that pours concrete into standing water to stay on schedule. Trenched, open holes sitting through a week of rain should be re-checked for depth and loose walls before posts go in.
When to Pay the Final Balance
After the walkthrough, and only after. A standard deal is 10 to 30 percent down with the balance due at completion - completion meaning every picket is on, every gate latches, and the punch list is done, not "we will come back Tuesday for the gates." Holding the final payment until the work is actually finished is your only real leverage, and legitimate companies expect you to use it. For budgeting context, installed 2026 pricing typically starts around $28 per linear foot for cedar, $17 for chain link, and $30 for vinyl, so a 150-foot cedar project starts in the low four thousands before gates and tear-out.
Line Up the Right Crew First
An installation only goes this smoothly when the company running it is solid. Compare established local installers on our state-by-state fence company directory - from Houston to California to Florida - get three written bids, and ask each one to walk you through their version of this exact timeline. The ones who describe the concrete cure pause without being prompted are the ones to shortlist.